I purchased this Piping Hot Binding tool and book on my last trip to the States (I think), intending to use it to put piping on the edge of The Misery Quilt when the time comes. I finally used it last week on a smaller quilt for a bit of practice before just diving in on a show quilt.
The directions are very thorough and straightforward, though obviously the method adds a bit more time to the binding process since you have to make the piping and then apply it before putting the binding on. I used my Pfaff 2056 to make the piping and bind the quilt since it has the dual feed, and I figured it would be way easier to find a Pfaff foot to use to make the piping because I have a much better selection of Pfaff feet around.
I used a Pfaff appliqué foot and moved the needle to the right just enough to clear the cording to make the piping. The foot has a channel on the underside so that the piping slides under it nicely and it’s easy to guide it through the machine. The Groovin’ Piping Trimming Tool made it super easy to accurately trim the piping to an even width after sewing. I used a regular 0A foot on the Pfaff to sew the piping to the edge of the quilt; I tried an open toe appliqué foot, but found that the 0A foot held the piping steadier with less shifting around while sewing it down.
I think my only issue with the whole process would be the fact that after you apply the piping, you have to put the binding on “upside down” so to speak. Usually I lay the quilt edge on the machine, and ever so slightly stretch the binding fabric as I sew it on. It makes the bindings firm, and takes care of any slight ruffling at the edges of the quilt by drawing it in a bit so it’s flat. (If I’m working on a show quilt, I do things a bit differently if the edges are ruffly, but on non-show quilts this is my quick and dirty cheater method of choice, and it usually works pretty well.)
When I turned the quilt over to bind it from the back to accommodate the piping, the binding strip was on the bottom, so I had to stretch the binding and then put the quilt over the top of it, and I don’t think it worked as well. The edges of this little quilt are kinda stretchy and funny, so the next time I do this, I’ll probably try to stretch the piping when I put it on the edges, before putting the binding on. If that doesn’t work then I guess the quick and dirty cheater method will have to give way to something a bit more precise in the way of ruffle control.
Next time I’ll also pay more attention when sewing at the corners; out of four corners, I got one that I would consider perfect, and good enough for a show quilt.
The other three were only so-so between the piping and the actual binding corner. I think the problem occurred when applying the binding, and that maybe a bit more attention to detail would fix it. The binding looks like the sewing line wasn’t quite where it needed to be right at the corner there, so there’s a bit of the thread that attached the piping showing that shouldn’t be:
All in all, I’d label the Piping Hot Binding tool and technique a success. Here’s the finished quilt, Vintage Cutwork Star:
And oh, by the way, this was one of the quilts on my Creativity List, so I can cross it off as DONE! Yay for finishing!