Some Swanky Quilting

Here’s a little more “stream of consciousness” quilting on the Swanky quilt:

I drew a loopy little quilt design to coordinate with the border stencil I chose, and then only used part of it! I decided the middle part was okay since it was just four little loopy bits, but the side parts were just too strange looking, like some alien spider thingy maybe. My oh-so-excellent drawing skills were hard at work again!

I found the perfect thread in my stash! Superior Threads Rainbows #808. Just look at it, the perfect combination of colors to go with the Swanky fabrics! I’ve used this type of thread for machine quilting a lot lately, so I was expecting it to be easy to quilt with. It wasn’t, but we’ll get to that in a minute.

Hobbs Thermore has been my batting of choice since Hobbs Bonded Fibers was generous enough to donate a queen-size package of it to me when I was at Quilt Market last October. Did you know that Hobbs also makes fibers for industries other than quilting? One of their newest products called Fibertect is “A three layer, inert, flexible, drapable, nonwoven composite substrate for decontamination that is effective in neutralizing and adsorbing toxic chemical agents potentially used in chemical warfare, toxic industrial chemicals, and pesticides.” Wow! Interesting…next time I need to clean house, I’ll know where to go for my outfit!

Anyway, Thermore is my favorite batting right now. From Hobbs: “This unique and patented product was developed as a thin, drapable, migration free polyester batt. ” Yup, that “migration free” part is why. After I tried Quilter’s Dream and it was bearding like crazy, I switched to Thermore and found that Hobbs doesn’t lie. Thermore just doesn’t beard, period.

But like all battings when they come out of the package, it’s a bit wrinkly and crinkly, so I’ve just been laying it on the ironing board and steaming it before basting. Just float the iron over it, not actually touching it, with the steam function cranked up to high and then smooth the wrinkles out with your hand as you go. Flip and repeat for the other side if necessary. You can also pop it into the dryer on low heat for five or ten minutes, but my dryer is two floors down so I use the iron on small pieces.

Since all the quilts I’ve been making lately are pretty small, I’ve been pin basting (with straight pins, not safety pins) instead of my usual trick with the tagging gun. I really like the pin basting because the holes are smaller! It’s also just quicker to pin it than get out the gun and the tags on something smallish.

I think I’ve also solved the “human pincushion” issue when using straight pins. I call these my Basting Buddies! They’re little caps that fit on the ends of the straight pins, so they keep the sharp ends from putting holes in me and they keep the pins from slipping out of the quilt as it’s moved around during machine quilting. It’s just as easy to get these on and off the pins as it would be to close and open safety pins, maybe even easier, and the point quality is much higher on a straight pin than it is on a safety pin, so it’s better for your fabrics.

I love the way the quilting turned out on this little quilt! Simple and easy quilting designs, but totally effective! But the quilting itself was NOT easy. I think this spool of Rainbows thread is some of the original version, and Superior Threads changed the thread slightly a few years ago and made it better. The newer spools that I have are quite easy to machine quilt with; I’d even say as easy as quilting with cotton, but the thread on this particular spool shredded and broke a lot during quilting. It happened so often that I was getting really frustrated with it, and I usually don’t get that way! Well, not about machine quilting anyway! I did get through it, but if I need this color combination of Rainbows thread again, I’ll probably just buy a new spool.

All in all, this was a really fun little quilt to make. I still have some more pictures that I took of the process, some while fitting the border quilting design (since Joyce asked) and some while hand stitching the binding down with a ladder stitch. I’ll share these in the next week or so!

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When is an Inch not 1″?

Have you ever compared the markings on your rulers to the markings on your cutting mat to see if they are the same? Can you even imagine that they wouldn’t be? Are the markings on your rulers really accurate? Is that inch really 1″?

It never occurred to me that the markings on the rulers might not match up with the markings on the cutting mats, nor that the rulers that I’ve used all these years weren’t really accurate themselves. I mean, why on earth would I even think about that? These things are precision made and we trust them to be accurate, right? Well, I used to anyway.

I found out recently that my trust has been misplaced for many years. I’m having a ruler manufactured to go with my book (yay!), and the manufacturer sent me a prototype to approve. I needed to make some changes, and in doing so, I measured the ruler against one of my Omnigrid rulers, and guess what? One of them was off ever so slightly. I assumed it was the prototype; after all, it’s just that, a prototype, a sample. Maybe it just didn’t get cut right (which was going to be another whole can of worms anyway, but I digress). So I emailed the manufacturer and told him I thought that the prototype he sent me was not the right size.

Unfortunately, assuming did what it frequently does, and made an a** out of me. The manufacturer told me it was exactly the right size, and asked why I thought it wasn’t. I finally got out one of my grandfather’s old stainless steel drafting rulers (he was an engineer, and I figured that one of those rulers would probably be a good benchmark), and compared it to both the prototype and the Omnigrid rulers. The prototype proved to be exactly the size it needed to be to cut accurate fabric pieces, and the Omnigrid ruler was off! Not by much, but the inaccuracy was there as plain as day.

At that point, I went a little nuts, and started comparing the drafting ruler to all my rulers, which are all the Omnigrid brand. The worst of the bunch was the 6″ x 24″, and though the drafting ruler is only 18″, I could tell that the Omnigrid ruler was nearly a sixteenth of an inch longer down at the 18″ end, if the 0 ends were lined up. I truly believe that at some point, this can make a difference in whether your patchwork pieces will fit together as they are supposed to, or need easing and heavy steaming to make it all work out as planned.

When you’re piecing a simple block there probably won’t be any evidence of a problem, but when you’ve pieced 40 complex blocks with many pieces and are stetting them together the inaccuracies add up, and then things don’t go together properly. And maybe, with all of the other stuff going on like 1/4″ seams being accurate (or not), and fabric stretching (or not) and grainlines going every which way, this whole issue with the rulers is just one more bump in the road, but heck, who needs another bump?

In the midst of these maybe-not-so-scientific experiments, I laid the 6″ x 24″ ruler on my 24″ x 36″ Olfa cutting mat, and got another eye-opener. The mat wasn’t even the same as the Omnigrid ruler. For that matter, the mat wasn’t precisely accurate either when measured against the drafting ruler, but it was off in the other direction. 😯 The markings on the mat were actually smaller than they should have been at the 18″ mark.

Now, maybe it’s not quite clear why this was bugging me out so, but I’m getting to that. In general, I don’t use the lines on the mat for anything, and I almost never measure against them, unless I’m working on borders. Borders are soooo long, and cutting them to the right size for the quilt can take some creative measuring and ruler manipulation (I don’t sew them on and then trim!), and I do use the mat at that point to measure the quilt top if I can fit it on there by folding it in half or something. I’ve always figured it was a better bet to measure the quilt top against the mat, rather than with a measuring tape, since those can stretch over time.

So when I measure the quilt top on the mat which is shorter than it should be, but then cut the borders with the ruler which is really longer than it should be, what happens? The borders are too long. Sometimes as much as 1/4″ to 1/2″ too long, and even that small amount can cause waviness in the borders, especially when combined with other issues in the quilt interior that may be giving the whole thing a flyaway look before the borders are even attached. And yes, I’ve noticed this during construction, that the borders are too long when I’ve just cut them according to the measurements. I’ve even gone back and double and triple checked everything to make sure I wasn’t just having a blond moment, but if you use the same tools and method to check your work as you did to do the work, you still don’t get the right answer, obviously.

All these years, I’ve been soooo careful to cut and sew accurately so that my quilts are flat and straight, but I’m still ending up with wavy borders at times, and wondering why. So now I know that I’ve been defeated by the ruler/mat combo. I’d already purchased a new Olfa mat for my cutting table when I discovered all of this, I just hadn’t put it on yet. I decided to measure the new mat and see where it fit in, and it doesn’t measure the same as the Omnigrid rulers either, but it is better (meaning more accurate overall, and closer to the Omnigrid ruler measurements) than the old one.

So what does all of this mean? Well, Crazy Accuracy Freak Girl is blubbering in the corner and will probably be there a while, but as for me, I just need to remember to use either the mat or the ruler to measure for borders or whatever it is at the time, but not both. So check your rulers people, and think about how you’re doing things that might be causing a problem without you knowing. An inch isn’t always 1″.

The Organized Cutting Table

I’ve spent years with a cluttered, unorganized cutting table with all of its essentials either laying around or slung in baskets, and wishing there was a better way. I always wanted pegboard, but never had a place to put any. I finally have it, and here are some pictures I took a couple of weeks ago:

Cutting table organization with pegboard

And the other side:

Cutting table organization with pegboard

I’ve had the whole shebang set up and organized for weeks, and I had the idea just after I got moved in and really settled in this Studio, so this has been a long time in the making. Ikea and pegboard, what a great combo! The chest of drawers is cheap Ikea furniture that I’ve used for fabric storage and a cutting table for years, but it’s always been stuffed between other pieces of furniture so that I couldn’t access the sides.

Now that I can put it in the middle of the room, the sides were wide open, and just begging for pegboard to hang all the rulers, cutters and associated tools. I had to have Dawn take a trip to Lowe’s for the pegboard and hooks, have the pegboard custom cut to size, and then mail it all to me from North Carolina, would you believe. I looked all over the Internet for some place that would send pegboard here after the guys at the German hardware stores just looked at me like I had a third eye when I asked if they had wooden pegboard. “Metal, yes, wood, no such thing” was their answer.

It’s all worth it though. Now I have easy access to all the cutters, scissors and rulers, and see that little blue thing on the pegboard in the second photo? That’s a pencil holder that Dawn thought would be handy, and it rocks! I can put a small pair of scissors in there, and pencils and pens, and there’s a little shelf sticking out on the front that holds my favorite fabric eraser (that I use for paper, not fabric, btw; best eraser ever). Thanks Dawn, you’re the best!

The only thing I still need to do is to get a better “topper” for the chest, to go under the 24″ x 36″ cutting mat. Get this: I’ve been using an antique mirror that belonged to my grandparents since 1994 when I bought the cutting mat. The mirror is still wrapped in the brown paper from the movers that moved us here to Germany from Las Vegas; we never even tried to hang it up because like many old mirrors, this one is heavy! ITMan never wanted to try to figure out how to keep it from falling off the wall!

So the mirror has served another purpose all these years, as a table top for the cutting table. The brown paper is starting to shred on the edges, so it must be time to do something else! 😉 Maybe I’ll request that ITMan take a trip to the hardware store and have something better cut to size while I’m in Des Moines, but I’m not counting on it being high on his priority list! He probably has enough to do…